Bab al-Yemen is probably the most famous place in all of Yemen. We've been here for a little over 4 months now and had yet to visit (even though it's less than a mile from our house; since we're here so long, there's this "no rush" feeling of we have time, we'll do it next month). So finally, I decided to go on a little adventure yesterday and see the elusive Bab al-Yemen. I ran into our neighbor Sammy and his friend Ahmad and off we went.
We walked through the old city of Sana'a and made our way to Bab al-Yemen, which is the main gate into the old city and, to be honest, it is really underwhelming. It is, however, a great place to hang out and watch foreigners snapping away photos and looking lost. I invited the boys to tea right across from the bab (door)--for all three of us it was less than 10 cents--and we sat down with some other Yemenis who immediately began to chat at me. They seemed dumbfounded that I was able to answer their rapid-fire questions. The main topic of conversation in Sana'a right now is the fact that a really popular Sheik died last week (he was also the equivalent to the Speaker of the House in the Yemeni Parliament).
The guy across from me asked if I could read Arabic--once again he was surprised--and he then handed me a government document that basically stated that he was a Sheik of a region just north of Sana'a (near Marib, location of the bombing last August). He looked to be around 60 (although it's hard to guess ages here), is a Bedouin, and has 16 children and 4 wives. He then passed me his cellphone and demanded that I call my mother (to prove his Bedouin generosity). I told him that it would cost about $5 a minute, but he kept insisting. I finally got out of it by explaining the time difference (it was about 2am back home). Since I didn't take him up on his calling offer, he instead offered me one of his 10 daughters. I explained that my wife probably wouldn't approve, although I was positive that his daughters were beautiful. Further insisting, he told me that if I ever converted to Islam, one of his daughters would be be mine. I thanked him and he walked with me to the middle of the square (holding my hand the whole time) and we bid farewell. I left with the promise to come stay with him and his family in traditional Bedouin fashion (camping in tents in the desert). Just another typical Yemeni day...
We walked through the old city of Sana'a and made our way to Bab al-Yemen, which is the main gate into the old city and, to be honest, it is really underwhelming. It is, however, a great place to hang out and watch foreigners snapping away photos and looking lost. I invited the boys to tea right across from the bab (door)--for all three of us it was less than 10 cents--and we sat down with some other Yemenis who immediately began to chat at me. They seemed dumbfounded that I was able to answer their rapid-fire questions. The main topic of conversation in Sana'a right now is the fact that a really popular Sheik died last week (he was also the equivalent to the Speaker of the House in the Yemeni Parliament).
The guy across from me asked if I could read Arabic--once again he was surprised--and he then handed me a government document that basically stated that he was a Sheik of a region just north of Sana'a (near Marib, location of the bombing last August). He looked to be around 60 (although it's hard to guess ages here), is a Bedouin, and has 16 children and 4 wives. He then passed me his cellphone and demanded that I call my mother (to prove his Bedouin generosity). I told him that it would cost about $5 a minute, but he kept insisting. I finally got out of it by explaining the time difference (it was about 2am back home). Since I didn't take him up on his calling offer, he instead offered me one of his 10 daughters. I explained that my wife probably wouldn't approve, although I was positive that his daughters were beautiful. Further insisting, he told me that if I ever converted to Islam, one of his daughters would be be mine. I thanked him and he walked with me to the middle of the square (holding my hand the whole time) and we bid farewell. I left with the promise to come stay with him and his family in traditional Bedouin fashion (camping in tents in the desert). Just another typical Yemeni day...
4 comments:
wow that sounds so cool I guess you picked the right day to go there.
nate start having kids so you can barter with them!
16 children? 4 wives? Holy crap imagine the child support? No wonder they don't divorce ...... How would you remember all of the names. Imagine the sleep overs...... aaaa are you one of mine????? Next time call me..... Heck I'll pretend to be your mom!!!!! That would be one fun phone call.
Cheers Nathan & your first wife :)(Morgan)
Sasha (BiH) & Wendy here, finally we found your card that you gave us @ BY-ways before you left for the trip around the world.
Hope to see you sometimes in life, and now we will be regulars on your blog (with bad ingrish).
Please make sure to drink some horse milk, it is old remedy ( just look how I turned out to be).
Portland is good, but now days jacket is a must when we go outdoors.
Cheers
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